Dalek Amigurumi Pattern - Free!

September 18, 2012, 10:21 am

≫ Next: Lionheart Project and Pattern Exchange

I'm a long time fan of Doctor Who - I started watching Jon Pertwee in the 1970s when I was very little, and I've loved it ever since, old series and new. The Daleks are a brilliant creation, scary and iconic, and I just had to crochet them. I made three a few years back, two for swaps and one for a present, but I never made any for myself. With the new season of Doctor Who just starting (and with the first episode featuring a selection of different types of Daleks) I knew I had to make them again.

I tweaked my original pattern a bit and came up with a design I'm really happy with. It's quite fiddly to make, but it has most of the essential details. I've made a classic grey and black Dalek from the 1970s and a bronze and gold one from the new series. However fearsome the real Daleks are, when they're reduced to 7 inches tall and made of yarn, they're suddenly much more cute and cuddly, and fun to play with. One of mine found a wig I'd made for something else and decided he'd look good in it. I can't decide if he looks like Boris Johnson or if it's one of Captain Kirk's!

The pattern is free - make as many Daleks as you like for yourself, friends or family, but please don't sell them. You can download the PDF from Craftster or Ravelry

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Lionheart Project and Pattern Exchange

September 26, 2012, 9:27 am

≫ Next: Little Lion Pattern Swap

≪ Previous: Dalek Amigurumi Pattern - Free!

Well, it's been a while since the Olympics and Paralympics ended, but alongside the inspiring athletes there was some extra inspiration for crocheters. The Cultural Olympiad ran alongside the sporting one, and the Lionheart Project was an amazing example of extreme crocheting. The artist, Shauna Richardson, spent the last two years crocheting freeform 'skins' for three giant lions, which represent Richard the Lionheart's crest of three lions. They've been touring parts of England in an enormous glass case (they're currently at Twycross Zoo) and spent the summer in London at the Natural History Museum. A friend of mine went up to London before the Olympics started and saw them making their way to the Museum:

At the start of the summer, when all the excitement of the Olympics was just about to begin, I was contacted by Louie of Louie's Loops, a crocheter who makes cool and geeky patterns, like Batman gauntlets and an adorable fox hat and scarf combo. He thought it would be fun to do a free pattern swap, where we both come up with fun little patterns and post them on each other's blogs. Of course, the first thing that came to mind was the giant lions that I'd been hearing about, so I set about making a tiny lion amigurumi.

I came up with Boris, the tiny lion, and he came with me and my kids to London, so we could see the giant versions. They are massive, very impressive in real life, and it's easy to see the amount of work in them. I love all the different shapes the artist made as she was creating them.

We (and Boris) also checked out some more famous lions in London, in Trafalgar Square.

At the same time Louis was working on his own lion project, a super-cute mini lion motif that you can turn into a brooch or hairclip, or sew onto whatever you like. Come back tomorrow and I'll post his pattern, and Louie will put up the pattern for Boris on his blog. See you then!

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Little Lion Pattern Swap

September 27, 2012, 9:31 am

≫ Next: Admiral Ackbar amigurumi

≪ Previous: Lionheart Project and Pattern Exchange

Welcome to the LucyRavenscar/Louie's Loops pattern swap - two patterns for the price of one, and they're both free!

Louie has come up with this cute little Lion pin pattern, which will look adorable on your coat or bag, or sew a hair clip onto it and stick it in your hair!

Crocheted Leroy The Lion Pin Pattern

Materials:

Lion Brand Cotton/Lily Sugar’n Cream
/Lion Brand Cotton-Ease
(basically any 100% cotton works)
-Crochet Hook-Size G6 4.00mm
-Needle to sew in ends with

Abbreviations:

-SL.ST = Slip Stitch
-SC = Single Crochet
-HDC = Half Double Crochet
-Ch = Chain
-Rnd = Round

Body:

Rnd 1: Ch 2, sc 6 in 2nd ch from hook. Don’t turn (6)
Rnd 2: Sc 2 in each st. (12)
Rnd 3: Sc 1 in first, 2 in next, repeat 6 times. (18)
Change to Brown
Rnd 4: In back stitches only, hdc 2 in first st, sl.st in next, repeat 6 times. (27)
Cut, tie off and sew in the remaining yarn.

Tail:

In beige, create a slip knot and pull it through the back connection between Rnd’s 3 and 4. Ch 7.
Rnd 5: Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sl.st 1 in each ch. (6)
Cut, pull through and tie off, sewing in the remaining yarn.

Embroider on a face with black yarn before you sew on a pin (if you do sew on a pin)

You can buy Louie's cool patterns on Etsy or Ravelry. He also has loads more free patterns on his blog, where you'll soon find my pattern for Boris the Tiny Lion (named by my kids after Boris Johnson, the Mayor of London, because they think he's funny!)

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Admiral Ackbar amigurumi

October 26, 2012, 3:53 am

≫ Next: Wee Mousies in Inside Crochet!

≪ Previous: Little Lion Pattern Swap

Well, here's the latest of my mini Star Wars amigurumis, Admiral Ackbar. He's a Mon Calamari who leads the Rebel Alliance fleet in Return of the Jedi, and is famous for shouting, 'It's a trap!' when he realises they've been lured in by the Emperor. The Mon Calamari come from a watery planet and I just love their design, with their big, bulbous heads, fish-like eyes and finny hands.

As my Ackbar is pretty small, only 4" tall, I simplified him quite a bit to match with all the other mini Star Wars amis I've made. Even so, I'm pleased with some of the detail I managed to get into his clothes, and I think I might try working on some of my earlier designs to see if I can add a bit more detail to them. Luke, in particular, would benefit from some alternatives outfits, I think.

The pattern to make Admiral Ackbar is now available from my Etsy shop, and you can also buy all 14 Star Wars patterns I've made to date, or pick and choose selections of two, three or six patterns.

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Wee Mousies in Inside Crochet!

October 27, 2012, 2:01 am

≫ Next: My Pet Caterpillar or Worm

≪ Previous: Admiral Ackbar amigurumi

The latest copy of Inside Crochet has just come out (issue 35) and my pattern to make a pair of cute little mice is in it!

These Wee Mousies are only 9cm tall so they're perfect to make for little presents or stocking fillers. They'll fit perfectly in a pocket and it would be sweet to make them a little bed out of a box, and crochet a tiny blanket for them. Their clothes are crocheted as part of their bodies, but you could easily make them little accessories - my prototype has no clothes but he does have a scarf.

If you like to crochet you should check out Inside Crochet, it's always full of gorgeous patterns; clothes that I'm dying to make but will probably never get the time - there's a Ruby Sweater this month that has an amazing texture - and smaller projects that I really want to try. The Milly, Molly, Mandy scarf on the front cover looks delicious and there are some beautful, understated scatter cushions that I fancy giving a go. There are also some great inspirational articles and a 'how to' section that's useful if you're new to crochet.

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My Pet Caterpillar or Worm

December 8, 2012, 10:49 am

≫ Next: Luke Skywalker times three

≪ Previous: Wee Mousies in Inside Crochet!

It's that time of year again when I've been busy making lots of tiny things for the Christmas Bazaar at my son's school. These little caterpillars (which can be fuzzy or not as you choose) or worms, are very quick to make, they don't even need stuffing. I think it's cute to put them in little matchboxes, so they look like something that a kid would pick up in the garden.

My Pet Caterpillar or Worm
Use whatever colour yarn you want your worm or caterpillar to be. If you want your caterpillar to be fuzzy, you’ll need a little bit of eyelash yarn. You’ll also need some black yarn to make the face. 4mm hook.

Abbreviations:

ch = chain
st = stitch or stitches
sc = single crochet (US), double crochet (

)
dc = double crochet (US), treble crochet (

)

Special stitch instructions:

3 dc bobble: YOH (yarn over hook), insert hook into second ch from hook, YOH and pull through loop, YOH, pull through 2 loops, *YOH, insert hook into same stitch, YOH and pull through loop, YOH, pull through 2 loops, repeat once from*, YOH, pull through all 4 loops on hook.

2 dc bobble: YOH (yarn over hook), insert hook into next stitch, YOH and pull through loop, YOH, pull through 2 loops, YOH, insert hook into same stitch, YOH and pull through loop, YOH, pull through 2 loops, YOH, pull through all 3 loops on hook.

Ch 13, turn.
Miss 1st 2 ch and do 3 dc bobble into 3rd ch, (sc in next ch, 2 dc bobble in next ch) 4 times, sc in next 2 ch, ch 1, turn.
Sc in next 11 st, ch 2, turn.
3 dc bobble in next st, (sc in next ch, 2 dc bobble in next ch) 4 times, sc in next 2 ch, (change to eyelash yarn here if you’re using it) ch 1, turn.

Join the edges with slipstitch, putting the hook through back loop of current row and the other side of the original chain. Make sure you put the original tail of yarn in the inside as you join, you’ll need it to make an antenna. (Keep the start of the fuzzy yarn inside too, it’ll save tidying it up later). Finish off, leaving enough yarn to make the other antenna. This is the head. If it’s a caterpillar, the joined side is the top (I think the bobbles look like stumpy legs at the bottom), the other way up for a worm, so take that into account when you sew on the features. There is an open part at the front of the head, so tie a knot in the black yarn and sew it through from the inside to make an eye. Leave the black yarn hanging and use one of the ends to sew up the front of the head, then make an antenna by sewing once in the same place, tying a knot where you want the end of the antenna to be, and cutting off any excess. Do the same with the other end for the other antenna. Finish off sewing the features, another eye & a mouth (the creature is so small it doesn’t have to be very detailed), take the black yarn through the body & cut off. You can also glue on small googly eyes instead of sewing features.

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Luke Skywalker times three

December 17, 2012, 3:56 am

≫ Next: Wee Mousies

≪ Previous: My Pet Caterpillar or Worm

Luke Skywalker must take after his mother with the number of costume changes he has in his three films! While his pal Han rocks the classic trousers, shirt and waistcoat through most of the films, Luke is always wearing something different. I've always thought it would be nice to improve my Luke amigurumi pattern by adding a variety of outfits and now I've done it. As well as giving a bit more detail to his Tatooine 'farm boy' look from the original Star Wars film I've come up with versions of Luke in his X-Wing pilot uniform, including the helmet, and in his black Jedi clothes from Return of the Jedi, along with a tiny lightsaber.

This new version of the pattern is now available in my Etsy shop, and I'm happy to send it for free to anyone who bought the original Luke Skywalker pattern in the past. Just contact me on Etsy with all the details of that order (order number, full name and date of order).

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Wee Mousies

April 2, 2013, 3:18 am

≫ Next: Boris The Tiny Lion - Free Amigurumi Pattern

≪ Previous: Luke Skywalker times three

My Wee Mousie pattern, which has been published in Inside Crochet and their 'bookazine' The Complete Guide To Crochet, is now available in my Etsy shop

I was very much inspired by my childhood when I made these - I loved tiny toys, but I wasn't very keen on dolls, I much preferred animals to play with, and reading things like Beatrix Potter and watching Bagpuss added to that.

The pattern has all the details to make either a little girl mouse with a dress, or a little boy mouse in a sweater. They're pretty much mouse-sized, just 9 cm (3.5") tall, so they're perfect as a little friend to carry around, or to play with in a doll's house. I can just imagine making them a home out of a shoebox, with furniture made from matchboxes and cotton reels, a bit like the Borrowers. Oh, and I'm sure they'd need a bed with a tiny crocheted blanket!

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Boris The Tiny Lion - Free Amigurumi Pattern

April 13, 2013, 4:07 am

≫ Next: Mini Monkeys - Free Amigurumi Pattern

≪ Previous: Wee Mousies

I've posted about this pattern before, it was part of a pattern exchange here, but I thought I'd put the pattern here on my blog so it's easy to find.

Boris The Tiny Lion
Amigurumi Pattern

Abbreviations:
ch = chain
st = stitch or stitches
sc = single crochet (US), double crochet (

)
dc = double crochet (US), treble crochet (

)
hdc = half double crochet (US), half treble crochet (

)
BLO = back loop only
FLO = front loop only
tog = together
sc2tog = decrease by working two sc together
FO = fasten off

General instructions:

Work in rounds unless otherwise stated and do not join rounds unless told to. Use a stitch marker to mark the start of a round - a small piece of different coloured yarn placed under the stitch at the start of the round will do. To start a round, you can use the magic ring method, but I prefer (ch2, work 6 sc into 1^stch). If you work the 6 sc over the tail of yarn as well you can use that to pull the hole tight.

Work through both loops of stitches unless otherwise indicated.

You will need:

Small amount of yellow/gold yarn.
Small amount of brown yarn.
Small amount of black yarn.
Small amount of stuffing.
3.5mm (E) hook.

Special stitch instructions:

5 dc pop: popcorn stitch for legs. Work 5 dc into 1 st, take hook out leaving loop, put hook through 1st dc & pull loop through.

3 dc bob: bobble stitch for mane. YOH, insert hook into next stitch, YOH and pull through stitch, YOH, pull through 2 loops, *YOH, insert hook into same stitch, YOH and pull through stitch, YOH, pull through 2 loops, repeat from*, YOH, pull through all 4 loops on hook.

Body:

Start using yellow/gold yarn.
Round 1: Ch 2, work 6 sc into 1^st ch - 6 st.
Round 2: [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 3 times – 9 st.
Round 3: Sc in each st around - 9 st.
Round 4: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st] 3 times – 12 st.
Round 5: [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 6 times – 18 st.
Round 6: Sc in each st around - 18 st.
Change to brown yarn.
Round 7: [Sc in next st, 3 dc bob in next st] 9 times – 18 st.
(Push the bobbles outwards after each round.)
Round 8: Sc in next st, [sc in next st, 3 dc bob in next st] 8 times, sc in next st – 18 st. (Optional: to make ears do the 2nd and 5th bobbles in the yellow/gold yarn).
Round 9: [Sc in next st, 3 dc bob in next st] 9 times – 18 st.
Change to yellow/gold yarn.
Round 10: [2 sc in next st] 2 times, sc in next 12 st, [2 sc in next st] 4 times – 24 st.
Round 11:5 dc pop in next st, sc in next 19 st, 5 dc pop in next st, sc in next 3 st – 24 st.
Round 12:Sc2tog, sc in next 18 st, [sc2tog] 2 times – 21 st.
Round 13 - 15: (3 rounds) Sc in each st around - 21 st.

Stuff as far as you can and embroider face with black yarn. Use French knots to make eyes.

Round 16: Sc in next st, 5 dc pop in next st, sc in next 16 st, 5 dc pop in next st, sc in next 2 st – 21 st.

Round 17: Sc in each st around - 21 st.
Round 18: [Sc2tog, sc in next 5 st] 3 times – 18 st.
Round 19: [Sc2tog, sc in next st] 6 times – 12 st.
Round 20: [Sc2tog] 6 times – 6 st.
FO, leaving length of yarn. Finish stuffing and sew up hole at end.

Tail:

Ch 5, turn, miss ch next to hook, ss in next 4 ch.
FO and sew to bottom. Sew or knot a little bit of brown yarn to the end to make a tuft.

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Mini Monkeys - Free Amigurumi Pattern

April 15, 2013, 9:34 am

≫ Next: Mini Frog - Free Amigurumi Pattern

≪ Previous: Boris The Tiny Lion - Free Amigurumi Pattern

If you've been following my blog you'll know that every year I make lots of little amigurumi for our school's Christmas Bazaar. I've been gradually putting the patterns on here, but I've still got quite a few to go.

I've made mini monkeys over several years, and tried all sorts of variations of the pattern, but this is the one I'm happiest with. You can make these little monkeys in two ways: either follow the main pattern to give them long legs or use the alternative instructions to have them sitting down with their little feet sticking out. Either way they're about 2"/5.5mm tall, not including legs. Make them in natural browns like mine or use any colour you like.

Abbreviations:

ch = chain
st = stitch or stitches
sc = single crochet (US), double crochet (

)
dc = double crochet (US), treble crochet (

)
hdc = half double crochet (US), half treble crochet (

)
BLO = back loop only
FLO = front loop only
tog = together
sc2tog = decrease by working two sc together
bob = bobble (see special stitch instructions)
pop = popcorn (see special stitch instructions)
FO = fasten off

General instructions:

Work through both loops of stitches unless otherwise indicated.

The faces for these monkeys are made by changing the yarn colour as you crochet. Carry the body colour yarn under the face colour by crocheting over it every couple of stitches. Don't carry the face yarn under the body yarn, just leave it hanging and pick it up when you need it in the next round.

Special stitch instructions:

4 dc pop: popcorn stitch for ears and alternative feet. Work 4 dc into 1 st, take hook out leaving loop, put hook through 1st dc & pull loop through.

3 dc bob: bobble stitch for face, hands and feet. YOH (yarn over hook), insert hook into next stitch, YOH and pull through loop, YOH, pull through 2 loops, *YOH, insert hook into same stitch, YOH and pull through loop, YOH, pull through 2 loops, repeat once from*, YOH, pull through all 4 loops on hook.

You will need:

Small amount of double knitting or worsted weight yarn for the body of your monkey, any colour you like.
Small amount of double knitting or worsted weight yarn for the face of your monkey, pale brown or any colour you like.
Small of black yarn for eyes and mouth.
Small amount of stuffing.
3.5mm (E) hook.

Start with yarn for body.

Round 1: Ch 2, work 6 sc into 1^st ch - 6 st.
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around - 12 st.
Round 3: [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 6 times – 18 st.
Round 4: Sc in each st around - 18 st.
Round 5: Sc in next 6 st, change to face yarn, sc in next 5 st, change to body yarn, sc in next 7 st – 18 st.
Round 6: Sc in next 4 st, 4dc pop in next st, sc in next st, change to face yarn, sc in next 5 st, change to body yarn, sc in next 2 st, 4dc pop in next st, sc in next 4 st – 18 st.
Round 7: Sc in next 7 st, change to face yarn, 3dc bob in next 4 st, change to body yarn, sc in next 7 st – 18 st.
Round 8: [Sc2tog, sc in next st] 6 times – 12 st.
Round 9: [Sc2tog, sc in next 2 st] 3 times – 9 st.
Round 10: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st] 3 times – 12 st.
Round 11: Sc in next 4 st, [arm: ss into next st, ch 7, 3dc bob into 3rd ch from hook, ss into next 4 ch, ss back into original st], sc in next 4 st, [arm], sc in next 2 st - 12 st.
Round 12 - 15: (4 rounds) Sc in each st around - 12 st.
Round 16: Sc in next 5 st ,[leg: make as arm], sc in next 4 st, [leg], sc in next st - 12 st.
Round 17: Sc in next 2 st, [tail: ss into next st, ch 13, miss ch next to hook, ss into next 12 ch, ss back into original st], sc in next 9 st - 12 st.
Round 18: [Sc2tog] 6 times – 6 sc. FO, leaving a length of yarn.

Stuff head and body. Push the bobbles on the face outwards and embroider eyes and mouth using black yarn. Use length of yarn to sew up hole at bottom.

Alternative sitting monkey

Make as above up to round 14.
Round 15: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st] 3 times – 15 st.
Round 16: Sc in next 8 st, 4dc pop, sc in next 3 st, 4dc pop, sc in next 2 st - 15 st.
Round 17: Sc in next 3 st, [tail: ss into next st, ch 13, miss ch next to hook, ss into next 12 ch, ss back into original st], sc in next 11 st - 15 st.
Round 18: [Sc2tog, sc in next 3 st] 3 times – 12 st.
Round 19: [Sc2tog] 6 times – 6 sc. FO, leaving a length of yarn.

Finish off as above.

Keep watching this space, I'll put up a pattern for a mini frog tomorrow.

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Mini Frog - Free Amigurumi Pattern

April 16, 2013, 1:33 am

≫ Next: Fantasy Amigurumi - Halfling

≪ Previous: Mini Monkeys - Free Amigurumi Pattern

Here's another one of the patterns I've made in the past for my children's school Christmas bazaar. However, a bright green frog seems more of a spring thing to me, so now is the perfect time to make one. This friendly little frog is easy to make with no parts to sew on, and is just 1.5"/4 cm tall.

Abbreviations:

ch = chain
st = stitch or stitches
sc = single crochet (US), double crochet (

)
dc = double crochet (US), treble crochet (

)
hdc = half double crochet (US), half treble crochet (

General instructions:

Work through both loops of stitches unless otherwise indicated.

Special stitch instructions:

4 dc pop: popcorn stitch for eyes and feet. Work 4 dc into 1 st, take hook out leaving loop, put hook through 1st dc & pull loop through.

3 dc bob: bobble stitch for hands. YOH (yarn over hook), insert hook into next stitch, YOH and pull through loop, YOH, pull through 2 loops, *YOH, insert hook into same stitch, YOH and pull through loop, YOH, pull through 2 loops, repeat once from*, YOH, pull through all 4 loops on hook.

You will need:

Small amount of green yarn, double knitting or worsted weight.
Small amount of red yarn for the mouth.
Small of black yarn for the eyes.
Small amount of stuffing.
3.5mm (E) hook.

Round 1: Ch 2, work 6 sc into 1^st ch - 6 st.
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around - 12 st.
Round 3: [2 sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, 4dc pop in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 2 times – 18 st.

Round 4 - 6: (3 rounds) Sc in each st around - 18 st.
Round 7: [Sc2tog, sc in next st] 6 times – 12 st.
Round 8: Sc in next 4 st, [arm: ss into next st, ch 6, 3dc bob into 3rd ch from hook, ss into next 3 ch, ss back into original st], sc in next 5 st, [arm], sc in next st - 12 st.
Round 9 - 10: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around - 12 st.
Round 11: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st] 3 times – 15 st.
Round 12: Sc in each st around - 15 st.
Round 13: Sc in next 8 st, 4dc pop, sc in next 4 st, 4dc pop, sc in next st - 15 st.
Round 14: [Sc2tog, sc in next 3 st] 3 times – 12 st.
Round 15: [Sc2tog] 6 times – 6 sc. FO, leaving a length of yarn.

Stuff head and body. Embroider black eyes on the popcorn stitches on the head and use the red yarn to sew a wide mouth. Use length of yarn to sew up hole at bottom.

↧

Fantasy Amigurumi - Halfling

May 3, 2013, 6:19 am

≫ Next: Fantasy Amigurumi - Elves

≪ Previous: Mini Frog - Free Amigurumi Pattern

For quite a while now I've been wanting to design some patterns for various fantasy characters; peoples and creatures that appear in all sorts of folklore, books, films and games. I decided they needed to be a bit bigger than my Star Wars characters (about 3.5" tall) so they would have a bit more detail, but it's taken a bit of experimentation to come up with the right body shape.

I made myself a little Frodo some time ago (see him in this post) and so the first pattern I started work on was for a Halfling. This is a generic name for the 'little folk' that appear in folklore, that often keep themselves hidden and can either be helpful or mischievous towards humans. In modern fantasy stories and games these little people often live alongside other fantasy races and have a variety of names and customs. Usually they are good-natured, not too war-like, and enjoy their food and home comforts. They are often portrayed with curly hair and wearing slightly more modern clothes - waistcoats and jackets rather than tunics - than other fantasy races. I think this comes from the fact that belief in hobs, brownies and similar creatures was still around relatively recently, so they are imagined in clothes from the 17th and 18th Century rather than the more medieval costumes favoured by Elves and Dwarfs. I've noticed that Halflings in games often appear as engineer or rogue-type characters; due to their size they're not obviously great warriors but they are quick and good with their hands so those sorts of professions suit them better.

My Halfling pattern, available now in my Etsy shop contains all the information needed to make a male or female Halfling, about 5.5" tall, with a choice of clothing. You can make a male Halfling with or without a waistcoat, and with a separate jacket, hat or cloak.

The female Halfling comes with the option of the traditional look with a bodice and skirt, or you can go for the engineer/steampunk look and make a Halfling with spiky hair and goggles.

I'm now working on a pattern to make Elves, again with a selection of looks, and then I will probably work on a pattern for Dwarfs. After that I welcome any suggestions, though I'd like to do orcs/goblins, perhaps some classical creatures such as minotaurs and fauns, and some human warriors, maybe with a few historical ones (Roman, Viking) mixed in with the fantasy.

↧

Fantasy Amigurumi - Elves

July 23, 2013, 10:12 am

≫ Next: Dalek at the Doctor Who Prom

≪ Previous: Fantasy Amigurumi - Halfling

You may have seen from my previous post that I'm working on a series of Fantasy amigurumi characters. I've already designed a pattern to make Halflings, and now my pattern to make Elves is finished. Elves originally came from European mythology and folklore and have now become part of modern fantasy books, films and games.

I've made four different Elves, two male and two female, to give a selection of options for people who want to make their own Elves.

Elf Warrior: He has long blond hair, pulled back into a braid, and a green tunic. He also has a separate hooded cloak and a sword.

Elf Archer: He has dark, mid-length hair and a tunic with wrist guards. I made him a cloak and a bow with a quiver full of arrows.

Elf Princess: She has long dark hair with a silver head-dress, and a long blue dress.

Elf Sorceress: She is wearing a short top, a long skirt with splits, arm protectors and shoulder armour. She has pale mid-length hair and long pointed ears, and she carries a staff with a magical orb at the top.

All the Elves are about 6.5" tall, compared to the Halflings that are 5.5" tall. I'm now working on a Dwarf pattern, but I'm not sure whether to make a female Dwarf. As a Discworld fan, I always think female Dwarfs should look the same as male ones, but I don't think this is the case in various games, or in The Hobbit from the glimpses we saw of Dale at the start of An Unexpected Journey. I'd really appreciate hearing people's views on this.

The Elf pattern is available to download from my Etsy shop.

↧

Dalek at the Doctor Who Prom

October 14, 2013, 2:08 am

≫ Next: Happy 50th Doctor Who!

≪ Previous: Fantasy Amigurumi - Elves

This summer there was a concert of Doctor Who music as part of the Proms season at the Royal Albert Hall. Sadly, I didn't get to go, but a crocheted Dalek made from my pattern did! Luckily, the person who made it for her friend's little boy let me know that it might have been filmed, so when the prom came on television I was watching with eagle eyes. I was so chuffed to have spotted it, and I took a photo of the Dalek menacing a Judoon (or was it the other way round?). It's not great quality, but hopefully you can see it.

Here's my original Dalek so you can see it a bit more easily:

↧

Happy 50th Doctor Who!

November 23, 2013, 1:41 am

≫ Next: Chubby Santa and Christmas Elf

≪ Previous: Dalek at the Doctor Who Prom

My crocheted Daleks are getting in on the Doctor's 50th anniversary celebrations today - they've got their party hats on and they're having a great time! I've been enjoying all the celebrations so far - I loved the wonderful 'Adventures in Space and Time' about the beginnings of the series, and I'm looking forward to 'The Day of the Doctor' that's on tonight.

If you want to make yourself a Dalek, all the details of where to download my pattern are in this post. I noticed a small error in the pattern yesterday, on round 24 for the bronze/gold Dalek, so if you've downloaded it before you might want to get it again.

If your Daleks want to get in on the celebrations, here's the pattern to make them tiny party hats:

Party Hat

Abbreviations:
ch = chain
st = stitch or stitches
sc = single crochet (US), double crochet (UK)
FO = fasten off

General instructions:
Work in rounds and use a stitch marker to mark the start of a round - a small piece of different coloured yarn placed under the stitch at the start of the round will do. To start a round, you can use the magic ring method, but I prefer (ch 2, work 6 sc into 1st ch). If you work the 6 sc over the tail of yarn as well you can use that to pull the hole tight. Work through both loops of stitches.
You will need:
Small amounts of two bright colours of yarn.
3.5mm (E) hook.
Tapestry needle.

Leave a short length of yarn when you start each colour.

Start using colour 1.
Round 1: Ch 2, work 6 sc into 1st ch - 6 st.
Round 2: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st] 2 times - 8 st.
Change to colour 2.
Round 3: Sc in each st around - 8 st.
Round 4: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st] 2 times - 10 st.
Change to colour 1.
Round 5: Sc in each st around - 10 st.
Round 6: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st] 2 times - 12 st.
Change to colour 2.
Round 7: Sc in each st around - 12 st.
Round 8: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 st] 2 times - 14 st.
Change to colour 1.
Round 9: Sc in each st around - 14 st.
Round 10: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 6 st] 2 times - 16 st.
FO. Pull the start of the yarn for both colours and the end for colour 2 through the top of the hat to make little streamers. Cut to length.
Weave in the end of colour 1 or use it to sew the hat on (I just pinned mine on).

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Chubby Santa and Christmas Elf

December 16, 2013, 6:34 am

≫ Next: Jabba's Palace

≪ Previous: Happy 50th Doctor Who!

It's that time of year again, when Christmas starts to invade my life. In a good way - it can be a bit hectic, but it's overwhelmingly fun. I was looking at my Chubby Gnomes pattern, when I realised that it would be very easy to adapt to make a little Chubby Santa to add to my decorations. I made him, and then I had to make him a little Chubby Elf to help him out.

They were quick and easy to make - I've added the details to the Chubby Gnome pattern that's available in my Etsy shop and on Ravelry. If you already bought the pattern, just contact me with all the details of your order, and I'll send you the updated version.

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Jabba's Palace

January 11, 2014, 9:07 am

≫ Next: Leesub Sirln

≪ Previous: Chubby Santa and Christmas Elf

I have just completed my latest Star Wars characters in crochet form; Jabba the Hutt, Salacious Crumb and Slave Leia; and the patterns are now available in my Etsy shop.

I've been meaning to design more Star Wars crochet patterns for a while now, although I always have a very long list of different patterns I want to create. However, last autumn I decided to start working on some new Star Wars characters. I had quite a few requests for Jabba the Hutt, so he seemed the obvious place to begin. He presented a different challenge to most of the other characters - generally I'm trying to simplify a fairly detailed character so that they're cute but still recognisable. Jabba is already quite a simple shape without much detail, and it's hard to consider him cute in any way! I also had to think about what size he should be; the other figures are not in an exact scale with one another, but Yoda is smaller than the human characters and Chewbacca is larger than all of them. I didn't want to make him too big, but he had to be bigger than the others.

In the end I was very happy with the way he came out - he's a simple shape, but the colour change in his face gives a bit of detail, and giving him a proper expression with the eyelids and facial features keep his character. That said, I definitely find him oddly cute in this miniaturised form!

As I was making Jabba it seemed obvious to consider what other characters from Jabba's Palace it would be fun to make patterns for. I decided that Jabba needed his annoying little pet, Salacious Crumb. However, he's pretty small, and I wasn't sure I would be able to give him enough detail. As he's a sort of lizard/monkey I used similar techniques to those I used to make my Mini Monkeys and that approach seemed to work. He seemed too simple a pattern to sell on his own, so I included him with Jabba.

Leia in the slave bikini costume seemed another obvious choice from the Jabba's Palace sequence - I know my husband kept asking when I was going to make her! The original Princess Leia figure I made was quite small, shorter than all the other human characters, and I found it hard to fit in the details of the bikini costume, so I made her a bit taller (the same as Luke). I also decided to change the way I made her hair, and make it as a separate piece of crochet rather than as part of the head.

I spent a while deciding how to make her bikini. Looking at the original, the top consists of a metal framework with grey/green leather underneath. I couldn't get the detail in the small amount of stitches I had to work with, so I just tried to show the metal part. The metal is described as brass, but it looks more like bronze to me - I tried to use a yarn that was brass-coloured, but it seemed too pale against the skin, so I settled on a darker bronze-coloured yarn, which I think works.

I was unsure as to whether the skimpy look of Slave Leia would work in a cute mini version, but I think she's turned out looking quite sassy, and ready to strangle Jabba if he causes any trouble!

The changes I made to the Slave Leia figure made me go back to the original Princess Leia figure in her white dress and tweak that pattern so that it was the same height and had hair made in the same way. If you bought the original Princess Leia pattern and you would like the updated version of that as shown here (Slave Leia is a different, separate pattern), just contact me on Etsy and let me know.

I'm now working on a Lando Calrissian pattern, then I 've got to decide which other characters I'd like to do; let me know any suggestions in the comments!

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Leesub Sirln

February 10, 2014, 5:16 am

≫ Next: Easter Patterns

≪ Previous: Jabba's Palace

Last year I was contacted by a lady asking if I would make a custom Star Wars amigurumi for a friend. Well, I don't normally make the toys, only the patterns, but when she said her friend had actually appeared in the original Star Wars, I couldn't refuse. Her friend is Pam Rose, and she played an alien in the background of the Cantina scene, called Leesub Sirln. I must have seen the character lots of time creating part of the atmosphere of the Cantina, but I wasn't quite sure what she looked liked so I went to her website to check - a beautiful leggy alien with a large head.

I made the amigurumi to the same scale as my other Star Wars characters - getting the head just the right shape and working out the unusual hairstyle was an interesting challenge, and it wasn't easy to get the detail into her minimal costume, but I think I did it.

Mini Leesub was given to Pam for Christmas, and apparently she was very pleased with it. She very kindly sent me a signed photo, and I'm very happy to have made a figure for the person who actually portrayed the character!

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Easter Patterns

April 5, 2014, 8:38 am

≫ Next: Mini Teddies - free amigurumi patterns!

≪ Previous: Leesub Sirln

Just a quick post to highlight some of my patterns that might make good presents for Easter. In my Etsy shop you can find my Woolly Jumpers pattern, which gives you instructions to make a cute little rabbit or lamb, either a boy in a sweater or a girl in a little skirt.

I also think my Chubby Gnomes pattern is quite fun for Easter - the gnomes are actually egg-shaped, and I associate gnomes with gardens and all the new spring growth.

Here on my blog I have some free patterns that are perfect for small extra Easter gifts (and good if you're worried about too much chocolate!). They're quick and easy to make, and need hardly any sewing to finish them off. Just click on the names below the pictures to see the patterns.

I've got a few more free patterns that I'm going to post in the next few days, some of which will also make good little extras for Easter, so keep an eye out for those.

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Mini Teddies - free amigurumi patterns!

April 9, 2014, 9:07 am

≫ Next: Quick and Easy Easter Bunny - free pattern!

≪ Previous: Easter Patterns

If you've read previous entries in this blog, you'll know that over the last few years I've made lots of small amigurumi toys for the Christmas Bazaar at my sons' school, and I've tried to share the various patterns. Originally I posted the patterns on Craftster, including one for tiny teddies -http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=289504.msg3296032#msg3296032

Another member, Wayuki, liked the pattern and changed it a bit -

http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=298179.msg3398743#msg3398743

I liked the way she made the heads of the teddies bigger, so I tried her version and tweaked it a bit myself, and I've used my second version to make lots of teddies for the Bazaar.

I know people have used my original Tiny Teddy pattern and had fun with it, so I thought I'd post that (with a few little alterations) and the larger Little Teddy pattern, so you can make either or both of them as you like. I've made a pair of the two different sizes using candy-coloured self striping yarn, then I've used natural coloured yarns to make two Tiny Teddies and one Little Teddy, so you can compare them.

Abbreviations:

ch = chain

st = stitch or stitches

sc = single crochet (US), double crochet (UK)

dc = double crochet (US), treble crochet (UK)

tog = together

sc2tog = decrease by working two sc together

bob = bobble (see special stitch instructions)

pop = popcorn (see special stitch instructions)

FO = fasten off

General instructions:Work in rounds unless otherwise stated and do not join rounds unless told to. Use a stitch marker to mark the start of a round - a small piece of different coloured yarn placed under the stitch at the start of the round will do. To start a round, you can use the magic ring method, but I prefer (ch 2, work 6 sc into 1^stch). The first ch is a slip knot so it will expand and if you work the 6 sc over the tail of yarn as well you can use that to pull the hole tight.

Work through both loops of stitches unless otherwise indicated.

Special stitch instructions:

3 dc bob: bobble stitch for Tiny Teddy ears. YOH (yarn over hook), insert hook into next stitch, YOH and pull through loop, YOH, pull through 2 loops, *YOH, insert hook into same stitch, YOH and pull through loop, YOH, pull through 2 loops, repeat once from*, YOH, pull through all 4 loops on hook.

3 dc pop: popcorn stitch for Little Teddy ears. Work 3 dc into 1 st, take hook out leaving loop, put hook through 1st dc & pull loop through.

4 dc pop: popcorn stitch for arms and legs. Work 4 dc into 1 st, take hook out leaving loop, put hook through 1st dc & pull loop through.

You will need:

Small amount of yarn, any colour you like, in double knitting or worsted weight.

Small amount of black yarn for eyes and mouth.

Small amount of stuffing.

3.5mm (E) hook.

Little Teddy in middle, Tiny Teddies on left and right

Tiny Teddy

These teddies really are tiny - depending on the yarn you use they'll be about 3.5 cm/1.5" tall.

Round 1: Ch 2, work 6 sc into 1^st ch - 6 st.
Round 2: [2 sc in next st, (3dc bob and sc in next st), 2 sc in next st] 2 times - 12 st.
Round 3 - 4: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around - 12 st.

Round 5: [Sc2tog, sc in next st] 4 times – 8 st.

Round 6: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st] 2 times – 10 st.

Round 7: Sc in next 4 st, 4dc pop, sc in next 3 st, 4dc pop, sc in next st - 10 st.

Round 8: Sc in each st around - 10 st.

Round 9: 2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 6 st – 12 st.

Round 10: Sc in each st around - 12 st.

Round 11: Sc in next 7 st, 4dc pop, sc in next 3 st, 4dc pop - 12 st.

Round 12: [Sc2tog] 6 times – 6 sc. FO, leaving a length of yarn.

Stuff head and body. Push the bobbles on the head outwards and embroider features using black yarn. Use length of yarn to sew up hole at bottom, pulling yarn upwards through body to make sure the bottom is flat.

Little Teddy

These cute little teddies will end up about 4.5 cm/1.75" tall, depending on the yarn you use.

Round 1: Ch 2, work 6 sc into 1^st ch - 6 st.

Round 2: 2 sc in each st around - 12 st.
Round 3: [2 sc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, 3dc pop in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 2 times - 18 st.
Round 4 - 6: (3 rounds) Sc in each st around - 18 st.

Round 7: [Sc2tog, sc in next st] 6 times – 12 st.

Round 8: [Sc2tog, sc in next 2 st] 3 times – 9 st.

Round 9: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st] 3 times – 12 st.

Round 10: Sc in next 5 st, 4dc pop, sc in next 4 st, 4dc pop, sc in next st - 12 st.

Round 11 - 12: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around - 12 st.

Round 13: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st] 3 times – 15 st.

Round 14: Sc in next 9 st, 4dc pop, sc in next 3 st, 4dc pop, sc in next st - 15 st.

Round 15: [Sc2tog, sc in next 3 st] 3 times – 12 st.

Round 16: [Sc2tog] 6 times – 6 sc. FO, leaving a length of yarn.

Stuff head and body and embroider features using black yarn. Use length of yarn to sew up hole at bottom, pulling yarn upwards through body to make sure the bottom is flat.

Tiny Teddy on left, Little Teddy on right

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