LucyRavenscar - Crochet Creatures

I really do love dragons, and I love to make crochet patterns for them. One of my very first patterns was my Fierce Little Dragon and then I made a larger Dragonet initially inspired by my love of the dragons and fire lizards of Pern. With my latest pattern I've tried to make dragons that are cuddly rather than fierce or majestic.

Cuddly they might be, but they still have horns, claws and spikes down their backs, along with a pair of cute little wings. They're fun to make in any colour you like - I found yarns with a bit of a mix of colours, like James C Brett Marble, gave a really nice effect.

The pattern is available on Etsy, Ravelry and Loveknitting - if you make one I'd love to see it!

It's nice to take a break from making amigurumi, and I had been keen to try Tunisian crochet, so I gave it a go. I tried out the technique, using my interchangeable hooks and cables from KnitPro, but it felt a bit awkward compared to normal crocheting. I decided that I needed to work on an actual project to really get the hang of it, and thought the easiest thing to make would be a cushion cover.

I grabbed a selection of brightly coloured yarns, double knitting weight, and a 5mm hook, and set to work. After a bit of experimenting I worked out that I needed 99 stitches to make a piece of crochet wide enough to cover my 50cm/20" cushion insert that I'd bought from Ikea, and I worked two forward and return passes of simple stitch for each colour, starting each new colour on the return pass. Here's a good basic guide to Tunisian crochet by Simply Crochet.

I tried to use the colours fairly randomly to give a fun, striking look to the cushion. I just kept going until the piece was long enough to fold over and fit the insert, with a bit of overlap to put buttons on. I definitely got the hang of Tunisian crochet by the end of it, and it was the perfect texture for a cushion cover - lovely and thick with no holes.

If you've never tried Tunisian crochet, I'd definitely recommend giving it a go - you could always try something much smaller, like a case for a phone or your sunglasses. My cushion is now brightening up my new craft room, and coming outside with me when I'm enjoying the sun.

My latest pattern, to make a selection of crochet Dwarves, is finally finished. I started working on this pattern nearly two years ago, but it kept getting put aside for other projects, and I rather lost the urge to get on with it. Then recently, when I was deciding which pattern to work on next, I looked at the one dwarf I had already made, and figured I might as well finish what I'd started and design a few more companions for him. Once I got started I really enjoyed coming up with different looks for the dwarves, and was very glad that I had chosen to work on this pattern!

I made five different dwarves, two female and three male, with all sorts of different looks and accessories. They fit with my other fantasy amigurumi characters, the slightly taller Elves and the smaller Halflings. Dwarves are another classic fantasy race, originally found in Norse and Germanic myths, that have become solidified in modern imagination from books such as The Hobbit and C. S. Lewis' stories of Narnia. They now feature in all sorts of films, books, and especially role playing games, both computer ones and table-top versions such as Dungeons and Dragons.

Dwarves are usually portrayed as being short and stocky, with impressive beards. Female dwarves do not appear so much in literature and film, and so there is no tradition of how they appear. Sometimes, as in Terry Pratchett's Discworld, they are indistinguishable from male dwarves, but games usually show them as bare faced. They don't feature except as background characters in Peter Jackson's Hobbit films, but I was interested to see that he gave them just hints of facial hair. I made my female dwarves without beards, just to show what they'd look like, and so as not to hide the different shape of their bodies, but there's no reason they couldn't have beards as well.

Most stories about dwarves tend to agree that they live underground, and are experts at mining and working metal. They are usually considered to be tough, and good at fighting, so I made my dwarves with warm, practical clothes (mostly crocheted as part of their bodies), including leather belts and wrist guards. I also included extra items that are made separately, such as a sleeveless coat, a simple cloak and a warm hat.

The pattern contains all the details to make these five characters, with different clothes, three different hairstyles (pulled back, loose, and spiky and shaved at the sides), and two sizes of beard. You can also make armour and weapons for them - there is a pattern for a helmet, with or without wings, a round shield, an axe and a war hammer.

You can buy this pattern from Etsy, Ravelry or LoveCrochet. Use all these details to make a dwarf look the way you want, by mixing and matching the different elements and accessories. If anyone makes one themselves, I'd love to see what your dwarf looks like!

My book, Star Wars Crochet, has just been republished in the US, and so should be available on Amazon and in other book and craft stores. When it was first released, earlier this year, it was also stocked on UK Amazon, so hopefully you'll be able to find it there soon as well.

The book includes the pattern for Jabba the Hutt, but there wasn't room to fit in his little pal, Salacious Crumb, so here it is for free! Salacious Crumb is a mischievous and annoying character, something between a monkey and a lizard, who is essentially Jabba's court jester. This crochet version is pretty small, only 2" tall when sitting, and is made all in one piece, with minimal sewing to complete him.

You will need:
Approx 5g beige yarn, double knitting weight.
Small amounts of black and russet brown yarn.
Stuffing.
Tapestry needle.
3.5mm hook (US E hook).

Abbreviations:

ch = chain
st = stitch or stitches
ss = slip stitch
sc = single crochet (US), double crochet (

)
dc = double crochet (US), treble crochet (

)
bob = bobble (see special stitch instructions)
tog = together
sc2tog = decrease by working two sc together
FO = fasten off

Note on yarn:

Double knitting (DK) yarn is standard in the UK, but in other parts of the world, such as the

, worsted weight is more commonly used. Worsted weight is a little thicker than DK but can easily be substituted and the pattern will still be in proportion, although you may find it necessary to use a hook one size larger.

Special stitch instructions:

2 dc bob: YOH (yarn over hook), insert hook into next stitch, YOH and pull through loop, YOH, pull through 2 loops, YOH, insert hook into same stitch, YOH and pull through loop, YOH, pull through 2 loops, YOH, pull through all 3 loops on hook.

3 dc bob: YOH (yarn over hook), insert hook into next stitch, YOH and pull through loop, YOH, pull through 2 loops, *YOH, insert hook into same stitch, YOH and pull through loop, YOH, pull through 2 loops, repeat once from*, YOH, pull through all 4 loops on hook.

Salacious Crumb is made in one piece in rounds from the top of the head down. Do not join rounds unless told to, use a stitch marker to mark the start of a round - a small piece of different coloured yarn placed under the stitch at the start of the round will do. To start a round, you can use the magic ring method, but I prefer (ch 2, work 6 sc into 1^st ch). If you work the 6 sc over the tail of yarn as well you can use that to pull the hole tight.

Work through both loops of stitches unless otherwise indicated.

Pattern Instructions:

Start using beige yarn.
Round 1: Ch 2, work 6 sc into 1^st ch - 6 st.
Round 2: [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 3 times – 9 st.
Round 3: 2 sc in next st, [ear: ss into next st, ch 5, miss ch next to hook, ss into next 2 ch, sc into next 2 ch, ss back into original st], sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st, [ear], 2 sc in next st, sc in next st - 12 st.
Round 4: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st] 3 times – 15 st.
Round 5: Sc in next 7 st, change to black yarn 3dc bob in next st, change to beige yarn sc in next 7 st - 15 st.
Round 6: 2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st, 2dc bob in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st, 2 sc in next st, 2dc bob in next st, sc in next 3 st - 18 st.
Round 7: Sc2tog 9 times – 9 st.
Round 8: Sc in each st around - 9 st.
Round 9: Sc in next 3 st, [arm: ss into next st, ch 10, 3dc bob into 3rd ch from hook, ss into next 7 ch, ss back into original st], sc in next 3 st, [arm], sc in next st - 9 st.
Round 10: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st] 3 times – 12 st.
Round 11: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st] 3 times – 15 st.
Round 12: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st] 3 times – 18 st.
Round 13: Sc in next 4 st, [tail: ss into next st, ch 15, miss ch next to hook, ss into next 14 ch, ss back into original st], sc in next 13 st - 18 st.
Round 14: Sc2tog, sc in next 4 st, sc2tog, sc in next 2 st, [leg: ss into next st, ch 11, miss ch next to hook, sc into next 2 ch, miss next ch, ss into next 7 ch, ss back into original st], sc in next st, sc2tog, sc in next 2 st, [leg], sc in next st - 15 st.

Stuff head and body. Push the bobbles on the face outwards and embroider eyes and mouth using black yarn.

Round 15: [Sc2tog, sc in next 3 st] 3 times – 12 st.
Round 16: Sc2tog 6 times – 6 st.

FO, leaving length of yarn. Sew up hole at bottom then take the yarn through the body to the head and sew a couple of stitches into base of ears to keep them closer to head.

To make the fluffy parts you will sew loops of yarn on the top of the head and around the neck. Thread a length of russet brown yarn onto your needle and take the yarn through the crocheted part, leaving a short length of yarn sticking out. Sew a stitch in the same place. Sew a loop next to this, then sew a stitch in the same place to secure it. Make 3-4 loops on the top of the head and 5-6 loops around the neck, leaving a gap at the front. Cut each loop and trim to length. Take the point of the needle through each strand to separate it and create a fluffy effect.

When I first started designing patterns I often made things using fuzzy mohair type yarn, which I then brushed to make cute, furry creatures, including my Adorable Monsters. Unfortunately, mohair yarns have become a lot less fashionable since then, and you can often only find very lightweight ones, which are no good for making amigurumi at a reasonable size. I did make some Adorable Monsters using normal yarn, but I decided to have another go, and make a little Yeti and Bigfoot.

I still wanted to give their fur a bit of texture, so this time I used Stylecraft Alpaca DK, an acrylic yarn with 20% alpaca in the mix. I find it works well for amigurumi animals as it has a really nice, soft and furry feel to it - I used it for my Alpaca Family and Bracken the Fox.

I made a little Bigfoot, tweaking the pattern slightly to give it a thumb, and I was really happy with the way it looked. I then thought it would be nice to have a larger version, something it would be a bit easier to cuddle. If you want to make a larger version of an amigurumi, there isn't any formula to do it. You just have to work your way through it, with an idea of what you want it to look like, and use trial and error to get it right. And some things don't scale up easily - it took a while to work out how to make the bigger fingers and toes when the popcorn stitches I used were just the right size for the original. I decided to make the big version with proportionally longer legs, but otherwise they're very similar.

Once I was happy with both the patterns, I made a pair of Yeti to go with the Bigfoots (Bigfeet?). As I was making the little one, I decided to see what the feet would look like sewn to the front, so it's sitting down, and I thought it looked really cute. The standing version of the little Bigfoot is only 6 inches tall, so the little sitting Yeti fits in your hand rather nicely. The bigger versions are 9 inches tall, and definitely just right for a cuddle.

So, if you'd like to make yourself a cute monster family, you can get the pattern from Etsy or Ravelry. I think they're cute on their own, but even cuter together.

I've recently been sent a copy of my Star Wars Crochet book that has now been published in Spanish. I can't speak Spanish myself, but here are all the details on the publisher's website.

Mi libroStar Warsganchilloestá ahora disponible enespañol.Todoslosdetalles aquíen el sitio webde la editorial: http://www.planetadelibros.com/kit-star-wars-crochet-libro-201117.html

I'm not a great one for preparing for Christmas too early, but when it gets to the 1st of December I start to feel more seasonal. To celebrate, I'm going to be posting a few simple, free crochet patterns over the next few days. They'll all be quick and easy to make, and could be useful for a few Christmas extras, for decoration, adding to your gift wrapping, or for mini presents.

Last year I made my crochet Daleks a bit more festive by making them mini Santa hats, so here’s the pattern so you can use it for your Daleks (pattern here), or other small toys. It will also fit figures made from my Halfling, Elf and Dwarf patterns.

If you use double knitting weight yarn the hat will have a circumference of about 21cm/8”. If you’ve made a Dalek or figure using a thicker yarn, use that same thickness of yarn for the hat so it will fit.

Abbreviations:

ch = chain
st = stitch or stitches
sc = single crochet (US), double crochet (

)
FO = fasten off

General instructions:

Work in rounds and through both loops of stitches. Use a stitch marker to mark the start of a round - a small piece of different coloured yarn placed under the stitch at the start of the round will do. To start the first round, you can use the magic ring method, but I prefer (ch 2, work 6 sc into 1^stch). If you work the 6 sc over the tail of yarn as well you can use that to pull the hole tight.

You will need:

Approx 10 – 15g red yarn, double knitting weight.
Small amount of white yarn, double knitting weight.
(Optional: use fuzzy white yarn for the edge, you will still need ordinary yarn for the bobble.)
3.5mm (E) hook.
Tapestry needle.
Fork with four tines.

Hat:

Start using red yarn.
Round 1: Ch 2, work 6 sc into 1^st ch – 6 st.
Round 2: Sc in each st around – 6 st.
Round 3: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st] 2 times – 8 st.
Round 4: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st] 2 times – 10 st.
Round 5: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st] 2 times – 12 st.
Round 6: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 st] 2 times – 14 st.
Round 7: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 6 st] 2 times – 16 st.
Round 8: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 7 st] 2 times – 18 st.
Round 9: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 st] 3 times – 21 st.
Round 10: Sc in each st around – 21 st.
Round 11: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 6 st] 3 times – 24 st.
Round 12: Sc in each st around – 24 st.
Round 13: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 7 st] 3 times – 27 st.
Round 14: Sc in each st around – 27 st.
Round 15: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 8 st] 3 times – 30 st.
Round 16: Sc in each st around – 30 st.
Round 17: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 9 st] 3 times – 33 st.
Round 18: Sc in each st around – 33 st.
Round 19: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 10 st] 3 times – 36 st.
Round 20: Sc in each st around – 36 st.
Round 21: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 11 st] 3 times – 39 st.
Round 22: Sc in each st around – 39 st.
Round 23: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 12 st] 3 times – 42 st.
Round 24: Sc in each st around – 42 st.
Change to white or white fuzzy yarn.
Round 25 - 26: Sc in each st around – 42 st.
FO and weave in ends.

Bobble:

Using white yarn make a tiny pompom by wrapping the yarn around a fork about 12 times. Cut yarn and then tie another length of white yarn around the middle with a double knot. Remove from fork and cut the loops in the pompom and trim neatly to the right size for the hat. Sew the length of yarn through the middle of the pompom a few times to secure it, then sew to the point of the hat.

If you like, fold the point of the hat over and sew in place with a couple of stitches (use the red yarn from where you started making the hat).

If you want to hat to fit something slightly smaller or larger, just stop when it’s large enough, or keep increasing in the same way until it’s large enough.

A few years ago I decided to make my own Christmas crackers (if you’re not familiar with these festive essentials check out the wiki page). I bought a kit with the cardboard tube and the snaps, and bought or made some little gifts to go inside. The kit did come with paper crowns, but I always find these slip off my head, and don’t fit the children in the family (or those with extra large heads), so I decided to make my own. I figured that the easiest way to make crowns that would fit everybody would be to make them very small and attach them with elastic under the chin or behind the head. You could also attach them with hair clips, like a fascinator. Here is the pattern to make your own mini crowns, about 8” in circumference, small enough to fit inside a cracker, or just to be worn for a special get-together or party, at Christmas or any other time. Or, they're just the right size for a dog, if they're patient enough to wear them!

Christmas Cracker Crown

For each crown you will need:

Approx 10g double knitting weight yarn in a bright colour.
Small amount of eyelash yarn in white or contrasting bright colour.
Approx 20” thin elastic.
4mm (F) hook.
Tapestry needle.

Abbreviations:

ch = chain
st = stitch or stitches
ss = slipstitch
sc = single crochet (US), double crochet (

)
hdc = half double crochet (US), half treble crochet (UK)
dc = double crochet (US), treble crochet (UK)
FO = fasten off

Special stitch instructions:

4 dc bob: bobble stitch. YOH (yarn over hook), insert hook into next stitch, YOH and pull through loop, YOH, pull through 2 loops, *YOH, insert hook into same stitch, YOH and pull through loop, YOH, pull through 2 loops, repeat twice from*, YOH, pull through all 5 loops on hook.

Front post sc (Fpsc): work stitch (sc) by putting your hook from right to left around the back of the post of the next stitch on the previous round. This will create a ridge on the other side of your work.

The front post stitches help the crown keep its circular shape, but if you want it to be stiffer you can use a pipe cleaner. Work round 1 with single crochet over a pipe cleaner, preferably the same colour as the main yarn.

Pattern:
Using main yarn for crown, ch 41, sc into 2^nd ch from hook, sc into next 39 ch. Making sure not to twist it, join to the first sc with a ss to make a circle.

Round 1: Ch 1, fpsc around same st, fpsc around next 39 st, ss to join to 1^st st.
Round 2: Ch 2 (counts as 1 hdc), hdc in next 39 st, ss to join to 1^stst.
Round 3: Ch 1, fpsc around same st, fpsc around next 39 st, ss to join to 1^st st.
Round 4: Starting in next st of round after joining ss [sc, skip 2 st, 3 dc in next st, ch 2, 3 dc in same st, skip 2 st, sc, ss] 5 times.
Round 5: Ss in each st around, 4 dc bob into each ch 2 gap. FO.

Push the bobble stitches from the inside outwards. Turn crown inside out and join in eyelash yarn into back of original ch, sc around bottom into back of original ch and join to first sc with ss. FO

Sew together the point where you originally joined in a circle and weave in ends. Tie or sew a length of thin elastic on either side so it will stay on head.

Note: sorry about the quality of these photos. The light is awful at this time of year, and I had to bribe my son to use his head to model the crowns, but he refused to let me show his face. Boris, our dog, was also bribed with a treat, but you can see how thrilled he was to be modelling!

When my children were young and I was decorating the house for Christmas, I was happy with the Christmas tree, but I felt that I needed something up high, to really fill the room. I tried paper streamers, but they always broke and didn't last from year to year. I think I looked for crochet bunting patterns, but they were too complex for the time I had to get something done, involving making lots of small items and then joining them together. So, I came up with this very simple, very quick bunting with streamers hanging from it, in red and green, nice festive colours. You can make it any length you like, change the length of the streamers, and use whatever colours fit in with your Christmas colour scheme. Pale blue and white would give a nice frosty look, especially if you used yarn with a sparkle in it. It's easy to store and it will look great when you bring it out each year.

Crochet Streamer Bunting

You will need:

Double knitting weight yarn (cheap acrylic is fine) in two colours. How much you'll need will depend on how long you make it, but 100g ball of each should get you quite a long way.

6mm hook (US J/10)

Abbreviations:

ch = chain

dc = double crochet (US), treble crochet (UK)

Method:

Work 2 strands together to start.

Ch 48

* Using only 1 strand ch 13, turn.

2 dc in 4th ch from hook, 4 dc in next 9 ch.

Join back into the double strand by working a slipstitch with both strands.

Ch 15 using both strands*

Work from * to *, alternating which colour you use to form the spiral, as many times as necessary to fit your room.

Ch 48, Fasten off.

The lengths of chain at the beginning and end are long enough to make loops to go round the end of curtain poles (which is how I secure them), or tie around whatever is handy.

I also made some with shorter streamers (see above), to do that just substitute the instructions below into the main pattern.

* Using only 1 strand ch 10, turn.

2 dc in 4th ch from hook, 4 dc in next 6 ch.

The bunting with the longer streamers is about 17' long, and the one with the shorter streamers is about 31" long. It's a while since I made them, but I think I used about one 100g ball of each colour for each length of bunting.

For another slight variation of this pattern check this post from 2009 when I made a multicoloured version for birthdays: http://lucyravenscar.blogspot.co.uk/2009/06/party-time.html

I've been getting a few requests recently asking about the yarn I used to make the 12 patterns in my Star Wars book, so here are all the details. I live in the UK, so that's where I get all my yarn from. I use double knitting (DK) weight yarn, equivalent to 3:light weight in the US, and 8 ply in Australia/NZ - there's a yarn thickness guide on Ravelry which is very helpful.

If you can't get hold of the yarns listed below, you can at least look at them in an online store such as Wool Warehouse, which might help you find equivalents closer to home.

I used mostly Hayfield Bonus DK, including Black (965), White (961) and Fleshtone (963) for many of the characters. Here's the list of the yarn used for each character individually, not including black, white and skin colour yarn:

Boba Fett: Hayfield Bonus DK, Orchard (904), Rustic Red (891), Dark Grey Mix (790), Light Grey Mix (814), Pumpkin (766), Robin DK Rust (26)

C-3PO: Hayfield Bonus DK, wheat (816), Robin Paintbox DK, Leopardskin (197) (possible alternative for gold, Hayfield Bonus DK, Pumpkin (766))

Chewbacca: Hayfield DK with wool, brogue (92) for the darker colour, and Hayfield Bonus DK , walnut (927) for the lighter colour. Bandolier, Hayfield Bonus DK Copper (843) and Light Grey Mix (814)

Darth Vader: Hayfield Bonus DK, Light Grey Mix (814), Emerald (916), Signal Red (977) or Classic Red (833), Dark Grey Mix (790)

Wicket the Ewok: Hayfield DK with wool, brogue (92) and Hayfield Bonus DK Copper (843) and Oatmeal (964)

Han Solo: Hayfield Bonus DK, Chocolate Brown (947), Pine (761), Cream (812), Rustic Red (891) or Classic Red (833)

Jabba the Hutt: Hayfield Bonus DK, orchard (904) and wheat (816)

Luke Skywalker (Jedi): Hayfield Bonus DK, Wheat (816), Dark Grey Mix (790), Lightsaber, Bright Green (886) or Robin DK Cordial (162), Light Grey Mix (814)

Princess Leia: Robin DK Brown (051), Hayfield Bonus DK Light Grey Mix (814) and Rustic Red (891) or Classic Red (833)

R2-D2: Hayfield Bonus DK, Royal (979), Light Grey Mix (814) or Robin DK Silver (027)

Yoda: (note, the green I used is not available anymore, this is a possible alternative) Hayfield Bonus DK, Grass (825), Chocolate Brown (947), Oatmeal (964) or Hayfield DK with wool, Sand (091)

I know that seems like an awful lot of different yarns, but a lot of them are repeated for different characters, and I used slightly different tones of yarn where you could use the same one if you want to economise, so here are the main colours of yarn you need:

Pale Green for Yoda: Hayfield Bonus DK, Grass (825)

Green for Jabba and Boba Fett: Hayfield Bonus DK, orchard (904)

Flaxen gold/blond colour for C-3PO, Jabba's face and Luke's hair: Hayfield Bonus DK, Wheat (816)

Light Brown for Chewbacca: Hayfield Bonus DK, walnut (927)

Brown for Chewbacca and Wicket: Hayfield DK with wool, brogue (92)

Brown for Han's hair and Yoda's body: Hayfield Bonus DK, Chocolate Brown (947)

Dark Brown for Leia's hair: Robin DK Brown (051)
(You could just use the same shade of brown for Han and Leia's hair)

Two shades of grey used for many of the characters, you could just use one of them: Dark Grey Mix (790), Light Grey Mix (814)

Light Beige for Yoda's robe and Wicket's feet: Oatmeal (964) or Hayfield DK with wool, Sand (091)

Rust Brown for Wicket's hood and Chewy's bandolier: Hayfield Bonus DK Copper (843) - similar to Robin DK Rust (26) used for Boba Fett so could use either.

Royal Blue for R2-D2: Hayfield Bonus DK, Royal (979)

Dark Blue for Han's trousers: Hayfield Bonus DK, Pine (761)

Cream for Han's shirt, could substitute white: Hayfield Bonus DK, Cream (812)

Red for Boba Fett's helmet, can be used for side of Han's trousers and Leia's lips: Hayfield Bonus DK, Rustic Red (891)

Then there are a few yarns that you only need a very small amount of, such as the variegated brown yarn for C-3PO's middle (Robin Paintbox DK, Leopardskin (197)), the dark yellow on Boba Fett's costume (Hayfield Bonus DK, Pumpkin (766)), the bright red and greens used for the buttons on Darth Vader and his and Luke's lightsabers.

I hope that list is some help, just ask if you have any questions.

My next free pattern for Christmas is a slight variation on my Little Kissing Mice pattern, so you can make a cute little mouse with a Christmassy red and green stripy sweater. You can add a loop so you can hang it on your Christmas tree, give it as a sweet little stocking filler, or fill it with catnip as a present for your cat.

Abbreviations:

ch = chain
st = stitch or stitches
ss = slipstitch
sc = single crochet (US), double crochet (

)
dc = double crochet (US), treble crochet (

)
tog = together
sc2tog = decrease by working two sc together
FLO = work in front loop only
FO = fasten off

Approximate size: 5cm/2" long without tail.

General instructions:

Work in rounds unless otherwise stated and do not join rounds unless told to. Use a stitch marker to mark the start of a round - a small piece of different coloured yarn placed under the stitch at the start of the round will do. To start a round, you can use the magic ring method, but I prefer to ch 2, and work the appropriate number of sc into 1^st ch. If you work the sc over the tail of yarn as well you can use that to pull the hole tight.

When changing from one colour of yarn to another work the stitch before the change until there are two loops left on the hook. Then use the new colour for the final yarn over hook and pull through.

Work through both loops of stitches unless otherwise indicated.

You will need:

Small amounts of double knitting or worsted weight yarn:
A natural fur colour for the head and tail.
Two colours of yarn, such as red and green, for the body.
Small amount of black yarn to embroider eyes.
Small length of cotton yarn.
Small amount of stuffing.
3.5mm (E) hook.
Tapestry needle.

Pattern:
Start with natural fur colour yarn.
Round 1: Ch 2, work 4 sc into 1^st ch - 4 st.
Round 2: [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 2 times - 6 st.
Round 3: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st] 2 times - 8 st.
Round 4: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st] 2 times - 10 st.
Round 5: Sc in each st around – 10 st.
Round 6: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st] 2 times - 12 st.
Round 7: Sc in next 6 st, [ear, in FLO of next st: ss, ch 2, 5 dc, ch 2, ss], sc in next 3 st, [ear as before], sc in next st – 12 st (counting each ear as one st).
Round 8: Sc in each st around, working into the back loop behind each ear – 12 st.
Stuff head and use black yarn to sew eyes.
Change to first yarn colour for body.
Round 9: [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 3 times, sc in next 6 st – 15 st.
Round 10: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st] 3 times – 18 st.
Change to second yarn colour for body.
Round 11: Sc in each st around – 18 st.
Change to first yarn colour for body.
Round 12: [Sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st] 3 times – 21 st.
Change to second yarn colour for body.
Round 13: Sc in each st around – 21 st.
Change to first yarn colour for body.
Round 14 - 15: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around – 21 st.
Change to natural fur colour yarn.
Round 16: [Sc2tog, sc in next 5 st] 2 times, sc2tog, sc in next 2 st, [tail: ss in next st, ch 20, miss ch next to hook, ss 19, ss back into original st], sc in next 2 st – 18 st.
Round 17:Sc2tog 2 times, sc in next 6 st, sc2tog 4times – 12 st.
Round 18:Sc2tog 6 times – 6 st.
FO, leaving a length of yarn. Using cotton yarn, sew a loop behind the head if you want to hang your mouse as a decoration. Finish stuffing and sew up bottom of mouse neatly - if you stuff the body well it will sit up nicely.

Another simple idea for a little tree decoration is to make one of my Little Teddies using white yarn and give it a red scarf.

For more Christmas crochet ideas, I also have a Chubby Gnome pattern in my Etsy shop which includes instructions to make these Christmas characters - a cute little Santa and Elf.

If you especially love mice and would like to make some slightly larger ones, try my Wee Mousie pattern.

Keep an eye out here and on my Facebook page as I'll be posting four totally new mini Christmas patterns.

Here's my next free Christmas pattern, to make a tiny crochet penguin, only about 3 cm/1.5" tall. This little fellow is perfect as a tree decoration, or you could use him in a Christmas scene or wreath, or add him to the wrapping on a present to make it extra special. He's made all in one go, with the wings crocheted as you go, so he's very quick and easy to create.

Abbreviations:

ch = chain
st = stitch or stitches
ss = slipstitch
sc = single crochet (US), double crochet (

)
dc = double crochet (US), treble crochet (

)
tog = together
sc2tog = decrease by working two sc together
FO = fasten off

General instructions:

Work through both loops of stitches unless otherwise indicated.

Special stitch instructions:

3 dc bob: bobble stitch. YOH (yarn over hook), insert hook into next stitch, YOH and pull through loop, YOH, pull through 2 loops, *YOH, insert hook into same stitch, YOH and pull through loop, YOH, pull through 2 loops, repeat once from*, YOH, pull through all 4 loops on hook.

You will need:

Small amounts of black and white yarn, double knitting or worsted weight.
Small amount of orange yarn for the beak.
A length of cotton yarn.
Small amount of stuffing.
3.5mm (E) hook.
Tapestry needle.

Pattern:

Start with white yarn.

Round 1: Ch 2, work 6 sc into 1^st ch - 6 st.
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around - 12 st.
Round 3: [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 6 times – 18 st.
Change to black yarn
Round 4: Sc in each st around - 18 st.
Round 5: Sc in next 6 st, [wing:ss in next st, ch 4, miss ch next to hook, sc in next 3 ch, ss back into original st], sc in next st, [3dc bob] 2 times, sc in next st, [wing: as before], sc in next 6 st– 18 st.
Push bobbles from the inside out, they will form the head.
Round 6: Sc in each st around - 18 st.
Round 7: [Sc2tog, sc in next st] 6 times – 12 st.
Round 8:Sc2tog 6 times – 6 st.
FO, leaving a length of yarn.

Embroider the eyes using three short lines of white yarn for each eye, then one or two even shorter lines of black in the centre. Make the beak by sewing a French knot with the orange yarn. To do this, take the yarn out between the eyes and, with the needle held close to this point, wrap the yarn three times around the needle. Sew back into the head very close to the point where the yarn came out. If you find this difficult, just sew two or three short lines in the orange yarn.

Using cotton yarn, sew a loop at the top of the head if you want to hang your penguin as a decoration. Finish stuffing and neatly sew up the hole at the back.

Here's Penguin just chilling with his friend Snowman, pattern coming soon!

Here's another, pretty simple Christmas crochet pattern, for a wee snowman in a woolly hat and scarf. Hang him on your tree, or use him as part of a Christmas display. As you can see, he looks great with the tiny penguin from yesterday.

Abbreviations:
ch = chain
st = stitch or stitches
sc = single crochet (US), double crochet (

)
tog = together
sc2tog = decrease by working two sc together
BLO = work in back loop only
FO = fasten off

Approximate size: 5cm/2" tall.

General instructions:

When changing from one colour of yarn to another work the stitch before the change until there are two loops left on the hook. Then use the new colour for the final yarn over hook and pull through.

Work through both loops of stitches unless otherwise indicated.

You will need:

Small amounts of white yarn, and two colours of bright yarn for the hat and scarf, double knitting or worsted weight.
Small amount of black yarn to embroider details.
A length of cotton yarn to hang as a decoration.
Small amount of stuffing.
3.5mm (E) hook.
Tapestry needle.

Pattern:

Start with main hat colour yarn.
Round 1: Ch 2, work 6 sc into 1^st ch - 6 st.
Round 2: [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 3 times - 9 st.
Round 3: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st] 3 times - 12 st.
Change to contrast hat colour yarn.
Round 4: Sc in each st around – 12 st.
Change to white yarn.
Round 5:BLO Sc in each st around – 12 st.
Round 6 - 7: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around – 12 st.
Round 8: [Sc2tog, sc in next 2 st] 3 times – 9 st.
Round 9: 2 sc in each st around - 18 st.
Round 10 - 13: (4 rounds) Sc in each st around – 18 st.
Round 14: [Sc2tog, sc in next st] 6 times – 12 st.
Round 15:Sc2tog 6 times – 6 st.
FO, leaving a length of yarn, and stuff. With the cotton yarn, sew a loop at the top of the head if you want to hang your snowman as a decoration. Using black yarn sew eyes, mouth and three buttons down the front. Finish stuffing and sew up bottom of snowman neatly.

Scarf:

Using one of the colours you used for the hat, ch 22 and FO. Tie tightly around snowman’s neck with a double knot.

Apparently, robins are associated with Christmas, at least in Britain, because of Victorian postmen, who wore bright red jackets and were nicknamed ‘Robins’. As they were a welcome sight, delivering the newly invented Christmas cards, their feathered namesakes soon became popular in the designs of the cards. Of course, robins are also delightful birds, easily visible and seemingly friendly (especially if you’re doing some gardening, when they swoop in and devour any bugs you’ve unearthed), who look particularly striking against a snowy backdrop with their bright red breasts.

With this crochet pattern you can make yourself a tiny little robin, only about 3 cm/1.5" tall. Simple and quick to make, with minimal sewing, he’s perfect to hang on your tree, or decorate anywhere else you like.

Abbreviations:
ch = chain
st = stitch or stitches
ss = slipstitch
sc = single crochet (US), double crochet (

)
dc = double crochet (US), treble crochet (

)
tog = together
sc2tog = decrease by working two sc together
FO = fasten off

General instructions:

When changing from one colour of yarn to another work the stitch before the change until there are two loops left on the hook. Then use the new colour for the final yarn over hook and pull through.

Work through both loops of stitches unless otherwise indicated.

Special stitch instructions:

You will need:

Small amounts of red, brown and white yarn, double knitting or worsted weight.
Small amount of black yarn for the eyes and beak.
A length of cotton yarn to hang as a decoration.
Small amount of stuffing.
3.5mm (E) hook.
Tapestry needle.

Pattern:

Start with red yarn.
Round 1: Ch 2, work 6 sc into 1^st ch - 6 st.
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around - 12 st.
Round 3: [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 6 times – 18 st.
Round 4: Sc in next 8 st, change to white yarn, sc in next 10 st – 18 st.
Change to brown yarn
Round 5: Sc in each st around - 18 st.
Round 6: Sc in next st, [wing:ss in next st, ch 4, miss ch next to hook, sc in next ch, dc in next ch, sc in next ch, ss back into original st], sc in next st, [3dc bob] 3 times, sc in next st, [wing: as before], sc in next 10 st– 18 st.
Push bobbles from the inside out, they will form the head.
Round 7: Sc in each st around - 18 st.
Round 8: [Sc2tog, sc in next st] 4 times, sc2tog, [tail: ss in next st, ch 4, miss ch next to hook, sc in next 3 ch, ss back into original st], sc2tog, sc in next st – 12 st.
Round 9:Sc2tog 6 times – 6 st.
FO, leaving a length of yarn.

Embroider the eyes using three short lines of black yarn for each eye. Make the beak by sewing a French knot with the black yarn. To do this, take the yarn out between the eyes and, with the needle held close to this point, wrap the yarn three times around the needle. Sew back into the head very close to the point where the yarn came out.

Using cotton yarn, sew a loop at the top of the head if you want to hang your robin as a decoration. Finish stuffing and neatly sew up the hole at the back. Don’t cut the brown yarn but use it to keep the wings in place. Sew one or two stitches in the middle of each wing to attach it to the back.

Here we come to the last in my collection of free Christmas crochet patterns, a miniature Father Christmas that you can make into a tree decoration, or add to a little festive scene. He’ll look sweet together with the penguin and snowman patterns I posted previously, though I think the mouse and the robin would look a bit giant next to him!

I hope you’ve been enjoying all the Christmas patterns, and found a few little things that you can make at the last minute if necessary. If you ever want to find them again, you’ll see a list of all my free patterns to the right of this page, just click on any that you’re interested in.

Abbreviations:
ch = chain
st = stitch or stitches
sc = single crochet (US), double crochet (

)
dc = double crochet (US), treble crochet (

)
tog = together
sc2tog = decrease by working two sc together
bob = bobble (see special stitch instructions)
BLO = work in back loop only
FO = fasten off

Approximate size: 6cm/2.5" tall.

General instructions:

When changing from one colour of yarn to another work the stitch before the change until there are two loops left on the hook. Then use the new colour for the final yarn over hook and pull through. When you use two different colours on the same round, as you do for the face, carry the colour you are not using behind the one you are working with.

Work through both loops of stitches unless otherwise indicated.

Special stitch instructions:

2dc bob: bobble stitch for beard. YOH, insert hook into next stitch, YOH and pull through stitch, YOH, pull through 2 loops, YOH, insert hook into same stitch, YOH and pull through stitch, YOH, pull through 2 loops, YOH, pull through all 3 loops on hook.

You will need:

Small amounts of double knitting or worsted weight yarn in red, white, black and skin colour.
A length of cotton yarn to hang as a decoration.
Small amount of stuffing.
3.5mm (E) hook.
Tapestry needle.

Pattern:

Start with red yarn.
Round 1: Ch 2, work 5 sc into 1^st ch - 5 st.
Round 2: 2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st - 6 st.
Round 3: [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 3 times - 9 st.
Round 4: Sc in each st around – 9 st.
Round 5: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st] 3 times - 12 st.
Round 6: Sc in each st around – 12 st.
Change to white yarn.
Round 7: Sc in each st around – 12 st.
Change to skin colour yarn.
Round 8:BLO Sc in next 6 st, change to white yarn, sc in next 6 st – 12 st.
Round 9: Sc in next 6 st, change to white yarn, sc in next 6 st – 12 st.
Round 10: Sc in next st, 2dc bob in each of next 4 st, sc in next st, change to red yarn, sc in next 6 st – 12 st.
Round 11: Sc in each st around – 12 st.
Round 12: 2 sc in next 6 st, sc in next 6 st - 18 st.
Round 13: Sc in each st around – 18 st.
Change to black yarn.
Round 14: Sc in each st around – 18 st.
Change to red yarn.
Round 15 - 17: (3 rounds) Sc in each st around – 18 st.
Round 18: [Sc2tog, sc in next st] 6 times – 12 st.
Round 19:Sc2tog 6 times – 6 st.

FO, leaving a length of yarn, and stuff. With the cotton yarn, sew a loop at the top of the head if you want to hang as a decoration. Using black yarn sew eyes and a little mouth on top of the beard. Finish stuffing and sew up bottom neatly.

Good news! I'm currently working on patterns for a second Star Wars Crochet pattern book. I'm afraid I can't give away much information yet, not even which characters will feature in it, but I thought I'd let you know.

We’ve had a lovely week here in the south of England, still quite chill but with lots of blue skies and sunshine, so it’s started to feel like spring – some of the muddy paths on my regular dog walks have even started to dry up! However, I still can’t believe it’s only a week until Easter. I thought I’d put together a list of my patterns that might be good to make for Easter, maybe as a substitute for one more chocolate egg, or as little extras in an Easter basket. I’ve also picked a few that make me think of spring, and getting outside to enjoy nature. Just click on the name to go to the patterns.

Woolly Jumpers

This is a pattern that allows you to make a cute lamb or rabbit, with the choice to have them wearing a dress/skirt or a sweater (jumper in the UK, hence the name). They’re about 6.5” tall (not including the rabbit’s ears) and would make a great Easter gift.

Chubby Gnomes

I originally designed these at Easter, the idea is that they’re egg-shaped, but also that I associate gnomes with gardening, and spring is when all the flowers start to appear. I think they’d be great to make as a gift with some packets of seeds and some plant pots or garden tools.

Mini Pets – Snails, Bugs and Frogs

This pattern to make a set of crocheted mini creatures also reminds of spring, and children getting outside and exploring. Make it so you don’t end up with the real creatures in your house!

Little Eggie

This is a very simple free pattern to make a cute little egg friend for Easter. I made a set of six for each of my boys and put them in old egg boxes, and they went on all sorts of adventures together!

Easter Bunny

Here’s a free pattern to make a little Easter bunny – you can make it in natural colours, or go for spring pastels, or even make it look like a chocolate bunny.

Tiny Chick

Very quick and easy to make, imagine lots of these on the breakfast table on Easter Sunday.

Wee Sheepie

I haven’t seen any lambs in the fields yet, but here’s a free pattern to make a tiny little sheep, perfect for all us yarn lovers.

Tiny Rabbit

If you’d like a more realistic looking rabbit, here’s a tiny one you can make.

I've been very busy working on my next Star Wars pattern book, so I haven't got many new projects to share. However, before I got started on the book I made a crochet blanket just for myself. Having finally got myself on Pinterest I'd discovered and pinned all sorts of lovely patterns, and I decided to make something fairly simple but colourful. I got inspiration from The Patchwork Heart and used the colour pack for this blanket to work out how much yarn I'd need.

I wanted this blanket to go in my bedroom, so I chose the colours to match a wallhanging that we have above the bed. I must admit, I decided on a range of blues and reds, but when some of them weren't in stock, I chose some alternatives that I slightly regretted (the purple in particular), but I was impatient to get on with it!

The basic pattern for the squares is very simple, I tweaked the pattern a little after looking in an old motif book that I have, but it's a very common square that you'll come across everywhere. I worked all the first rounds, then all the second rounds, and so on, and in fact, it felt like it worked up quite quickly, though I didn't work out exactly how long I spent on it. It was nice to work in separate motifs as I started on it when the weather was still quite warm, and I didn't fancy sitting under an increasingly large blanket!

The amount of yarn I'd bought (ten 100g balls of Stylecraft Special DK in different colours - Lipstick, Burgundy, Gold, Claret, Midnight, Sherbet, Teal, Denim, Storm Blue, Plum - and four balls in Stone for the outside of each square and joining) was supposed to be enought for a blanket 8 by 8 squares, but I found I only used about half of the colours before the last round once I'd made 64 squares. I wasn't sure how much of the joining yarn I was going to use, so I ended up making 90 squares, and the four balls of the Stone were just enough to make the final rounds and join all the squares for a blanket that size.

I joined the squares using sc(US)/dc(UK) through the edge of two squares at a time, it's a quick way to join and is very neat, smooth on the front and giving a ridge on the back of the blanket, which you can see in the photo below. I do like the way that the holes on each corner of each round make a pattern when the squares are all joined together.

I'm very happy with my blanket, which is just for me, even though the colours don't work as well as I'd wanted. I use it on my bed as an extra layer if it's very cold (my husband doesn't really feel the cold, so it only needs to be large enough to go on my side of the bed). It's also good for napping under when it's not so cold, and as I fold it up when I'm not using it, it hasn't got covered in cat or dog hairs!

I finished work on all my patterns for the new Star Wars Crochet book a little while ago, but I've now been given the publication date. Star Wars Even More Crochet will be available (in the US at least) in March 2017. I know that seems a long way away, but it takes that long to produce.

The book is part of a kit that will include all the materials and the patterns to make a Jawa and BB-8, and the patterns for Rey, Finn, Poe Dameron, Kylo Ren, Obi-Wan Kenobi, Lando Calrissian, Admiral Ackbar, Nien Nunb, Greedo and the Cantina Band.

I'm sure some of you are starting to think about Halloween already, so if you want to crochet something cute for the occasion, why not check out my Itty Bitty Bat pattern (see the list of free patterns on the right for the link), which now includes a version in German, courtesy of Annet Tafelski.

Cuddly Dragon Amigurumi Pattern

Multicoloured Tunisian Crochet Cushion

Dwarf amigurumi pattern

Salacious Crumb - free pattern

Yeti and Bigfoot Amigurumi Pattern

Star Wars Crochet in Spanish

Christmas is on the way! Mini Santa hat free pattern

Christmas Cracker Crown - free pattern

Crochet streamer bunting - free pattern

Star Wars Crochet - yarn used

Little Christmas Mouse - free pattern

Tiny Crochet Penguin - free pattern

Mini Snowman - free crochet pattern

Tiny Christmas Robin - free crochet pattern

Mini Father Christmas - free crochet pattern

Star Wars Crochet - the second book

Spring and Easter Patterns

Solid Square Blanket

Star Wars Even More Crochet

Itty Bitty Bat - German translation