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Tiny Woodland Animal Amigurumi Patterns

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My latest project is a collection of crochet patterns for nine tiny woodland animals which includes: fox, badger, squirrel, rabbit, hedgehog, mole, otter, sitting and flying owls, as well as patterns for a playmat, tree stump and hollow log. Like some of my other patterns, such as the Tiny Cats and Dogs, these make cute little animals, ranging in size from 4 cm to 10 cm (1.5" to 4") long, which are mostly crocheted 'all-in-one', with the ears, legs and tails made as you go along, and minimal sewing.
 
As I live in the UK, these are woodland animals that I'm familiar with from Britain, and I've made them in a realistic style, at least as far as I can given their size. Although they're not totally in scale, I've tried to keep them mostly in proportion with each other. They don't use much yarn, so they're good for using up scraps - I made them using acrylic yarn with a bit of wool or alpaca mixed in, to give a nice, soft effect. 

This set is perfect for animal-loving children to play with (due to the size of the animals they wouldn't be suitable for any children under three years) but you could also make them for anyone who loves any of these animals - they're easy to turn into key-chains or decorations, and a group of flying owls would make a great mobile. 

I gave the owl a little hat, and made a scarf for the squirrel, to make them into Christmas decorations.

This collection of patterns is available now in my Lucyravenscar Etsy and Ravelry shops. 


Fox 
One of my favourite animals, known in folklore for their cleverness and cunning. It's not too hard to spot an urban fox at night, but I especially love it when I see one in the countryside during the day, when their red coats show up so beautifully. I was lucky enough recently to spot one in a field through a hedge, only a few metres away, hunting by pouncing into the grass and catching (and crunching!) a vole.



For such a small creature, there was a lot of work in getting this pattern right. The changes of colour to get the white patch under the chin in just the right place, and all the increases and decreases to get the shaping of the body took many tries! Like most of the animals, the fox is crocheted from nose to tail with the ears and legs made as you go along, so the only sewing you need to do is the features and the hole at the end of the tail. 


If you want to crochet a much bigger fox, try my Bracken the Fox pattern. 


Badger 
Whilst badgers in other parts of the world are often known for their aggression, that is not the case with British badgers. Made popular in children's literature with the kindly, paternal Badger in The Wind in the Willows, they are often thought of as determined and patient.



The distinct pattern of black and white stripes on the face weren't easy to get right, especially over such a small number of stitches, but I worked it out eventually. Since badger's eyes are on the black stripe I had to sew some brown with a black dot on top to make them show up. 

For a larger, cuddly badger pattern, why not give Blackberry the Badger a go? 


Squirrel
Red squirrels are native to Britain, but the introduction of North American grey squirrels in the nineteenth century has meant that they are mostly found in the rural North of England and Scotland, and are not so easy to spot. Grey squirrels, on the other hand, are common in woods, parks and gardens, and are probably the main wild mammal that most people see regularly. Either version is wonderful to see, leaping from branch to branch, using their wonderful fluffy tails for balance.



The tail was the main design challenge in this pattern. I tried to make it as part of the body, but that just wasn't possible. Once I decided to make it separately I wondered whether to make it fluffy, or as a solid shape, but I after a couple of experiments I came up with a way of making it that I'm really happy with. 


Rabbit 
Another relatively common animal that I sometimes spot on country walks, or nibbling on road verges when I'm driving along, I fell in love with rabbits when I read Watership Down as a child.



I already have a free pattern for a little rabbit available here on my blog, but I worked on it and tweaked it to make the shaping on the head better and more realistic. The tail is made separately, I tried to make it as part of the body but that didn't work as well. 



Hedgehog 
A very endearing creature which is very popular in Britain, although their population is sadly in decline due to habitat loss. Sometimes seen snuffling around gardens at night, it's a long time since I've seen one, although I do remember saving several baby hedgehogs that fell into a drain outside our house when I was little! 


Given how small this pattern is, it was hard to work out how to make the hedgehog's prickles. Any three-dimensional stitches would be too big, and so I ended up using spike stitches in a different colour to give the effect of spines. Hedgehogs do have ears, but they're quite small, and at this scale I couldn't include them without them being out of proportion. 


Mole
A small creature that is rarely seen, though the evidence of its existance, molehills, can be found all over the place! Another animal that appears in The Wind in the Willows, moles are seen as modest and introverted, with their tiny eyes and poor eyesight, and the fact that they spend most of their lives underground.



I made my mole with dark grey yarn, as although they have black fur, it has a bit of a shine to it, making it look more grey. In real life their eyes are barely visible, but I did sew little black eyes, even if they're hard to see in the photo. Luckily it is easy to see their cute pink snouts and big, spade-like front paws. 


Otter 
A beautiful creature that's known for its playful attitude, sadly it isn't easy to see in the UK. Found along waterways, their populations are only just starting to recover after years of pollution. Various species are found all over the world, from giant South American otters to sea otters, but they always spend most of their time in the water. 



This is quite a simple shape, the most complicated part of the deisgn was getting the pale colour on the neck in the right place. You could always change the colours to make other similar animals, such as weasels, stoats, pine martens or ferrets. 


Sitting and Flying Owls 
I love owls, they're beautiful and unique-looking birds that are found all over the world. They feature strongly in myths and literature, with their large eyes, round faces and silent flight making them seem mysterious and wise, although sometimes they just look very cute! 



I mostly based these patterns on the short-eared owl, but many owls have similar colours, and you could always change the colours to match a particular species of owl. The sitting owl, made all-in-one, has a detailed speckled chest, a short tail at the back, and little feet. I tried a few different techniques to make the chest, but eventually I was happy with the way it looked. I was very keen to make a flying owl, they look so impressive in flight with their wings stretched out wide. The wings are made separately, and I rather like the way that crochet stitches automatically give the look of feathers.


I also have a pattern available for a larger owl in a sweater, the Flappy Owl


Playmat 
A simple circle of grass with a tree stump in the middle, it makes a great place to play with the animals. You can also make a hollow log for the creatures to hide in, and the mat has a drawstring around the edge so you can use it to carry the toys around. You could also just make the tree stump and use it as a little display for one of the animals.





Human Figure Amigurumi Pattern

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My latest pattern is a simple human figure, without features but fairly proportional and shaped more realistically than most amigurumi. It is non-gendered and designed to be made in one colour. You can use pipe cleaners or wire in the limbs to make it poseable, so it can be a little friend, hanging around on your shelves and looking after your plants. The pattern includes details to make a base for the figure, so you can pose it like an artist's manikin, or you can turn it into a statue, fixed in one position (a pattern for a sword is also included).




You can also use this pattern as a base and alter the figure as you please, add features, clothes, other accessories, and make it look however you wish. What would you do with it?



You can find the pattern in my Etsy and Ravelry shops.


Dice Bag - Free Pattern

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Since the new Dungeons & Dragons film has just been released, I thought it would be fun to share this simple dice bag pattern with you D&D players out there. I’ve had a few goes at playing over the years, but never had a chance to get really into the swing of it (I tend to stick to tabletop games). However, my daughter has been playing for years, and has built up an impressive collection of dice, so I thought I’d make her a nice, sturdy bag for them.

It’s a fairly simple design, but to give a bit of visual interest, and hopefully some extra strength, I’ve used front post stitches to make vertical ridges – you can do them at different distances apart, as you choose.


Wider spaced ridges

Narrower spaced ridges


You can make your bag in any colour you like, or use more than one colour – self-striping or multicoloured yarn is the quick and easy way to get a fun effect.

This bag will come out about 15 cm/6” tall, 10 cm/4” in diameter.



Abbreviations:
ch = chain
st = stitch or stitches
ss = slip stitch
sc = single crochet (US), double crochet (UK)
dc = double crochet (US), treble crochet (UK)
fpsc = front post single crochet (US), front post double crochet (UK), see special stitch instructions below.
tog = together
sc2tog = decrease by working two sc together
YOH = yarn over hook
FO = fasten off

General instructions:
Work in rounds unless otherwise stated and do not join rounds unless told to. Use a stitch marker to mark the start of a round - a small piece of different coloured yarn placed under the stitch at the start of the round will do. To start a round, you can use the magic ring method, but I prefer (ch 2, work 6 sc into 1st ch). If you work the 6 sc over the tail of yarn as well you can use that to pull the hole tight.

Work through both loops of stitches unless otherwise indicated.

You will need:
Approximately 40g of any colour yarn, double knitting or worsted weight.
4mm (G/6) hook.
Tapestry needle.

Special stitch instructions:

Fpsc: work sc by putting your hook from right to left around the back of the post of the next stitch on the previous round.

Sc do not have much of a post (the body of a stitch, apart from the 'v' shape of the two loops that you normally put your hook under) so it can be quite hard to do this stitch. Push your hook under the two loops as normal (Fig. 1), then back under the two loops of the next stitch from back to front (Fig. 2 shows with the green mark where to insert your hook from the back, Fig. 3 shows what it looks like when you have done this). YOH, pull yarn through, YOH, pull through both loops on hook. When you work the next stitch remember to start by putting your hook under the second set of two loops that you used previously. It is very easy to mix up which stitch you're working into, so count your stitches frequently to check you haven't made a mistake.

   Fig. 1

   Fig. 2



   Fig. 3


Linked dc (optional): to make the top of the bag where the drawstring goes a bit stronger, you can work round 38 with linked dc. To do this, work the first dc of each pair. Then insert your hook under a strand of yarn that makes up the dc (Fig. 4 shows the strand outlined in black, Fig. 5 shows the hook under the strand) and then into the next st. YOH, pull through yarn, YOH, pull through 2 loops, YOH, pull through 2 loops.

   Fig. 4

   Fig. 5



Bag:
Round 1: ch 2, work 6 sc into 1st ch - 6 st.
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around - 12 st.
Round 3: [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 6 times - 18 st
Round 4: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st] 6 times - 24 st.
Round 5: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st] 6 times - 30 st.
Round 6: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st] 6 times - 36 st.
Round 7: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 st] 6 times - 42 st.
Round 8: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 6 st] 6 times - 48 st.
Round 9: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 7 st] 6 times - 54 st.
Round 10: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 8 st] 6 times - 60 st.
Round 11: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 9 st] 6 times - 66 st.
Round 12: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 10 st] 6 times - 72 st.
-For wider spaced ridges continue here:
Round 13 - 34: (22 rounds) [fpsc, sc in next 5 st] 12 times - 72 st.
Round 35: [fpsc, sc in next 3 st, sc2tog] 12 times - 60 st.
Round 36 - 37: (2 rounds) [fpsc, sc in next 4 st] 12 times - 60 st.
-For narrower spaced ridges continue here:
Round 13 - 34: (22 rounds) [fpsc, sc in next 2 st] 24 times - 72 st.
Round 35: [fpsc, sc2tog, fpsc, sc in next 2 st] 12 times - 60 st.
Round 36 - 37: (2 rounds) [fpsc, sc in next st, fpsc, sc in next 2 st] 12 times - 60 st.
-For all bags, continue here (see above on how to do linked dc if you choose):
Round 38: ss in next st, ch 1, dc in same st, dc in next st, ch 1, skip st, [dc in next 2 st, ch 1, skip st] 19 times - 60 st.
Round 39: starting in first dc, [sc in next 2 st, sc around ch] 20 times – 60 st.
Round 40: sc in each st around - 60 st.
-Ss in next st, FO.
-Weave in ends.

Drawstring:
Chain until you have a length of about 60 cm/24”, then ss in each ch, FO.
Thread through the ch 1 spaces at the top of the bag, then sew the ends together, weaving your yarn a little way along the drawstring to make the join secure.

Fill with dice – or use for anything else you want!





B2EMO - Star Wars Andor Droid Pattern

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I absolutely loved season 1 of Andor, the Star Wars show that came out in 2022, and prequel to Rogue One. Brilliantly made, it had a different feel to many other Star Wars films and shows, and I can't wait to see the conclusion, hopefully out later this year. One of my favourite characters was the salvage assist droid, B2EMO belonging to the Andor family. He is an old droid, a bit battered and with a vocal stutter, but he is incredibly loyal.


Making something that was a square shape was an interesting challenge, but I ended up working out the pattern quite quickly in the end (handy, since the first time I made it was as a last minute Christmas present!). I did a couple of small tweaks to that initial pattern, and it is now available to buy in my Etsy and Ravelry shops.


He isn't in scale with my other Star Wars amigurumi as he would have ended up way too small, but at about 8 cm/3.25" tall he's the perfect size to sit on your desk or shelf and keep you company. 


Pumpkinhead Witch and Scarecrow Amigurumi Pattern

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As it was heading towards autumn a couple of years ago, and people had started talking about Halloween online, I had an urge to make a witch with a pumpkin head. I thought I'd work on the pattern and have it ready in time for the spooky season. Of course, it took me much longer to make than I thought, so I played with the idea a bit and created a pumpkin-headed scarecrow as well. Then I shelved it, as it seemed a bit pointless bringing out a pattern like that in springtime. As autumn swung round again last year I suddenly remembered this pattern and got it ready, but I completely forgot to post about it here on my blog. I hope you're enjoying this insight into my organisational skills!


I tried a couple of techniques to form the ridges in the pumpkin, and in the end was very happy with what I came up with. The ridges are subtle, but I think they work. You could easily change elements of this pattern to make the clothes different, she doesn't have to be a witch, she can be a girl in a bright-coloured dress, and you can make the scarecrow in any colour of clothes that you want.


This pattern is available in my Etsy and Ravelry shops.

Love Monster, with Free Amigurumi Heart Pattern

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For Valentines Day I’ve made this cute little Love Monster, using my Adorable Monster pattern. I had some lovely pink fuzzy yarn that I’d saved for ages, and this seemed the perfect thing to make with it. I had to give him a heart to give to people he loves, so I’ve included the pattern to make that below.


Amigurumi Heart Pattern

This is a simple pattern to make a three-dimensional amigurumi heart that could be used for all sorts of things. Make it into a decoration, make several of them and display in a bowl or string together to hang on the wall. You could give one to someone you’ve fallen in love with, or stick pins in it if they break your heart!

Yarn required:

I used double knitting (DK) weight yarn, approximately 10g. You can use any colour you like, and any thickness of yarn, though you will need to adjust the amount and hook size. 

You will also need:

Stuffing.

Tapestry needle.

4 mm hook (US G hook).

Finished size: approximately 6 cm/2.5" tall.

Abbreviations:

ch = chain

st = stitch or stitches

sc = single crochet (US), double crochet (UK)

tog = together

sc2tog = decrease by working two sc together

FO = fasten off

Notes:

This heart is made in rounds, starting with the two rounded parts at the top which are then joined together by crocheting around and continuing to the point. Do not join rounds, use a stitch marker to mark the start of a round - a small piece of different coloured yarn placed under the stitch at the start of the round will do. To start a round, you can use the magic ring method, but I prefer to ch 2, then work sc into 1st ch. If you work the sc over the tail of yarn as well you can use that to pull the hole tight. Whichever method you use, always make sure that there is no hole in the first round before you continue.


Top of heart (make 2):

Round 1: ch 2, work 6 sc into 1st ch - 6 st.

Round 2: [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 6 times - 12 st.

Round 3: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st] 6 times - 18 st.

Round 4 - 6: (3 rounds) sc in each st around - 18 st.

-For first piece, FO leaving a length of yarn.

-For second piece, do not FO.

Rest of heart:

-Join the two pieces, leaving 3 st not joined between the two pieces, using the following instructions:

Round 7: sc into 4th st of first piece, sc in next 14 st, sc into 4th st of second piece, sc in next 14 st - 30 st.

Round 8: sc in next 6 st, sc2tog, sc in next 13 st, sc2tog, sc in next 7 st - 28 st.

Round 9: sc in next 6 st, sc2tog, sc in next 12 st, sc2tog, sc in next 6 st - 26 st.

Round 10: sc in next 6 st, sc2tog, sc in next 11 st, sc2tog, sc in next 5 st - 24 st.

Round 11: sc in next 6 st, sc2tog, sc in next 10 st, sc2tog, sc in next 4 st - 22 st.

-Sew up the hole between the two original pieces using the length of yarn from the first piece.

-Start to stuff and continue as you go along.

Round 12: sc in next 5 st, sc2tog, sc in next 9 st, sc2tog, sc in next 4 st - 20 st.

Round 13: [sc2tog, sc in next 3 st] 4 times - 16 st.

Round 14: [sc2tog, sc in next 2 st] 4 times - 12 st.

Round 15: [sc2tog, sc in next st] 4 times - 8 st.

Round 16: sc in next st, sc2tog, sc in next 2 st, sc2tog, sc in next st - 6 st.

-Finish stuffing and sew up hole at bottom.


This pattern is also available to download from Ravelry, and the Adorable Monster pattern can be bought on Etsy and Ravelry.



 

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